Cairo to Alexandria and back: a snapshot through a train window

Egypt is one of the more interesting places in the region serviced by our R&D group, so I was excited to go back there early this year. Unfortunately, shortly before we left, there was some violence at a football stadium, so we needed to get clearance from our corporate security department, which was given, with the warning to be careful, and to use a hotel in Mirage City, not Cairo city centre!

Ladies wearing long hair must be tied up!

The JW Marriott hotel in Mirage City is actually extremely smart. The buffet breakfast was one of the best parts of the day for me, and when they iron your shirts, they pack them up like brand new. They also take your safety very seriously. A sign near the hotel pool warns that "ladies wearing long hair must be tied up": a most sensible recommendation, in my opinion.

The road to Mirage City

Our candy plant is in Tenth of Ramadan city, about 50 km from Cairo. Every day, we had about a 60 km drive to the plant. This was a great chance to practice my hilariously bad Arabic (or at least the Egyptian dialect) by talking to the driver, and to see the beautiful examples of road safety that abound in North Egypt.

Sometimes, we also saw the results of this lasseiz-faire attitude:

We still made it safely there and back every day, despite the generally aggressive driving. Before my colleagues returned home, we went out to the Nile Maxim restaurant, a floating restaurant actually on the Nile!

The view from the Nile Maxim restaurant at night

I spent the weekend in Egypt, so I'd already resolved to go to Alexandria by train again. I'd last done this three years ago when I actually had business at our chewing gum factory in Alexandria, and really enjoyed the trip.

The industrial area outside Cairo

I can still heartily recommend this. It's very cheap: 50 EGP each way, very comfortable, and you get a great view of the rural areas and small towns between Cairo and Alexandria. Despite the current troubles in Egypt, the trains run on time, and you even get an assigned seat! I chatted to an Alexandrian on the train, and we played two games of chess on my tablet. He didn't play very well, though, so I won 2/2.

Now you see a grimy settlement, now a citrus orchard

Animal power still rules here.

Along the way to Alexandria, it's very clear how prevalent animal power still is. Donkey carts are everywere. The landscape alternates between bucolic North African beauty, piles of garbage, and picturesque and less picturesque little villages.

Another milestone passed.

Low-cost housing near Alexandria

The modern Library of Alexandria

Having made it to Alexandria, I called my local contact, Moushira Elamrawy (a Wikimedia Foundation Staffer: one of the few jobs that's cooler than mine!) who very kindly accompanied me to the library and showed me around (giving something of an insider's view, having worked there in the past). We briefly visited a small anti-government protest (apparently the day before, there had been a much larger pro-government protest), where we had a very interesting conversation about sustainable development and nature conservation with one of the protestors. She also recommended that I visit the old fort (well worthwhile!) and gave me directions to get back safely.

Outside the library, there are some very cute sundials, including an analemmatic sundial.

Inside the library there is, of course, a huge collection of books and room for many more; many internet workstations; a mirror of the internet archive; museum and art exhibitions; and even a whole lot of antique printing presses and a modern machine which allows you to rapidly print any book which is available in suitable electronic format.

One of the best free things to do in Alexandria is to walk along the shore of the harbour, seeing the local people, the scenery and the many historical buildings.

Even the locals use the horse carriages for a comfortable trip along the seashore. I didn't bother to ask the cost, because I'm a cheapskate, but I guess if you know how to haggle in Egyptian, you can probably get a good deal.

Probably symbolic decoration on an Alexandrian fishing boat

I took a bus back from the Library to within walking distance of the station for only 1 EGP. Even Egypt can sometimes be cold. Wearing only a t-shirt and jeans was not the best idea ever, but I managed to avoid hypothermia by hanging out in the station security office / waiting room.

So, aftery my brief visit to Egypt, having realised, once again, that things are never as bad as CNN makes out, I was on a plane back home. Next time, I promise myself, I'll study a bit more Arabic before I go!

Salaam, Misr!